India Fashion History >> The 19th Century

India Fashion History >> The 19th Century

A Historical Outline , The 16th Century , The 18th Century , The 19th Century

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Title: The 19th Century
Description: Dr. Goetz speaks" of changes in fashion introduced in the early 19th century, even at the Mughal court, following impulses received from the courts of Kabul and Teheran outside India. http://www.indianfashion.biz/article2.php?id=7&id1=9&sna=India+Fashion+History&cna=The+19th+Century
Dr. Goetz speaks" of changes in fashion introduced in the early 19th century, even at the Mughal court, following impulses received from the courts of Kabul and Teheran outside India. As he says The basis of the development was the fashion of the court of Nadir Shah of Persia knee-long, mostly red colored, dress, with pointed neck, open till the girdle and closed by an insertion. Round the neck, sometimes, a broad, richly embroidered collar the legs in high boots. On the head a pointed cap, its summit being crushed, wrapped with a small cloth and a pinned sar-pesh, short full beard. Nearly the same costume is seen on the picture of Ahmed Shah Durrani, but different in the fari dress and a whole ribbon of pearl-ornamented sar-pesh. The new fashion included the old qaba, but the neck was let to the girdle and filled with a tight insertion. The jama was worn a little more than knee-long. Under it, wide long trousers (pyjamah), boots or slippers with high curved points. Over the jama, an over-dress with short sleeves, often with embroidered collar or with rich ribbons. This dress was always closed over the chest. Usual is a fur bordered faiji dress. Clearly the jama and its variant, the angarakha, continued to remain a favorite as a formal article of court dress, but it underwent changes of different kinds. In the early 18th century, in the period of Farrukhsiyar and of Muhammad Shah, it attained a greater length than in the 17th century and came right down to the feet, sometimes covering them and trailing in its fullness on the ground. In fact, art historians tend sometimes to date paintings using this length of the jama as a guide.