The
onset of the decline of the Mughal empire in the 18th
century loosened, it seems, the control that the Mughal
court at Delhi exercised on sartorial fashions, and it
would appear as if at centers of power that were fast
growing up, away from Delhi, attempts were made to assert
local identities in various ways.
By and
large, one can fairly state that during these times there
is no major accent or thrust in the fashioning of new
garments the emphasis seems to be on introducing
variations or modifications of dresses that had been in
use for a long time.
At
centers like Lucknow, however, a self-conscious style was
sought to be evolved, a certain dandyism taking over. It
is not without reason that the bankas of Lucknow, those
elegant men whose lives revolved as it were around their
appearance, are celebrated in the literature of the times.
The old
garments, the jama or the angarakha, the faiji or fatubi,
the payjamah, the turban, underwent certain changes not
always easy to date or describe but the cuts and
appearances were changed with a careful look at the
over-all effect of ensembles
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